Our first food tour of the trip is here in Venice.

We met the lady from the company Eating Europe at the agreed on meeting place and off we went. Time to explore the more than 3000 ‘streets’ and 150 canals.

We were very excited to hear more from a local – she was born in Venice! – and have small samples of food as we go.

Little did we know that in Venice the idea of ‘small sample’ does not exist.

At our first stop, Rizzo, we were going to ‘sample’ a unique Venetian version of Pizza with mortadella, buffalo cheese and pesto.

She came out with this giant slice piled about two inches high. Great, we are going to share that and we will be stuffed?

Nope. We EACH got a slice that big!

What a start to a tour.

At Osteria Why Not Bistro we got a great Prosecco – it is never too early! – and two cicchetti. One was polenta with pickled onions-and-shrimp, and the other is some kind of meatball.

There are about 178 churches here, and this is the one where Jeff Bezos decided to get married.

Cantina Azienda Agricole delivered spectacularly with a risotto with fresh artichoke and smoked ricotta. Delightfully paired with a crisp white wine from the region.

A La Vecia Papussa’s surprise was a Spritz made with ‘Special’ which has a taste somewhere between Campari and Aperol.

For our nibbly bits they deliver eight cachetti! Eight!
By now we were all so stuffed that the other two people barely ate any of it.
We are not quitters and we finished everything, including their portions.

Our selection consisted of the following toppings: Cream of cod, Lard, Salami, Gorgonzola, Pumpkin&onion, Grilled vegetables, Tomato/cheese and Salmon.

The flag of Venice with the six stripes representing the six sistieri (neighborhoods?)

Our final stop mere seconds from an imminent food explosion was at one of the oldest bakeries in Venice to try their speciality: Tiramisu.

Final thought: We have a food tour in every city of this trip. Can we survive them all, including a seven day cruise, and still fit in our clothes on the flight back?

Stay tuned!

PS Kudos if you got the reference of the post’s title.

How can you come to Venice and not go St. Mark’s Square to see if the Doge is home?

Spoiler alert: He was not!

Ludovico Manin(1726–1804) was the 120th and last Doge of Venice, ruling from 1789 until 1797. He abdicated on May 12, 1797, following Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion, which brought an end to the thousand-year-old Republic of Venice.

We did go up the tower to survey his domain, and for the spectacular views of Venice.

The Teatro Venizia is now a grocery store. The dichotomy inside is crazy!

Pick your restaurant before we head down.

Yes, we had to.

We are in Venice after all!

The gondolier was remarkably well informed and told as all kinds of great historic stories of the places we floated by.

And the gondoliers are so skilled in maneuvering those long skinny craft in those narrow canals.

Our last evening in Venice.

We took a relaxed walk back and believe it or not, still went for a three course dinner.

Until next time!

How much Prosecco did she drink to end up in a bowl of salt?
Mysteries abound…

The place we picked for dinner. Now how do we get over there…?

We left Venice very early to make sure we do not miss our train again.

Florence was an intense delight. We saw David, the only stop we planned, and ended up adding on Ponte Vechhio as well as, of course, a Wine Window!

“Nor has there ever been seen a pose so fluent, or a gracefulness equal to this, or feet, hands and head so well related to each other with quality, skill and design”. With these words Giorgio Vasari attempts to define the reasons behind the marvel that the vision of David provokes in the observer. He continues by stating that the statue so far surpasses both in beauty and technique ancient and modern statuary that one needn’t bother seeing other works in sculpture.

At the end of 1501, Michelangelo obtained the permission of the Opera del Duomo to work a block of marble which had been abandoned in the courtyard of the Cathedral of Florence for the creation of the figure of the young hero, subsequently placed in front of Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza Signoria.

It has always been a subject of debate among scholars whether David is represented before or after his victory over Goliath. His sling is also barely visible as though to emphasize how David owed his victory not to brutal force, but to his intellect and to his innocence. As soon as it was placed in front of Palazzo Vecchio, the statue became a symbol of liberty and of civic pride for the Florentine Republic. Surrounded by hostile enemies, the city identified itself with the young hero who, with the help of God, had defeated a much more powerful foe.

In 1873, Michelangelo’s statue was brought here to the Tribune of the Galleria, built expressly for it and, only in 1908, was it substituted in Piazza Signoria by the marble copy still there today. The bronze copy found in Piazzale Michelangelo overlooking Florence was done in 1866.

PS Another title reference!

We arrived in Rome and got to our charming hotel with no issues.

After a drink at the rooftop bar it is off to dinner.

Our day started with a tour of the Colosseum that included access to the ‘underground’ areas that was originally under the arena floor.

It was fascinating and interesting and you could feel the history seeping out of the stones.

The tour ended across the way in the Roman Forum. From on top of the Palentine Hill, looking down, you could really appreciate the archeological lasagna that is Rome.

The bakery in front of our balcony window starts very early with the most wonderful smells drafting up.

Welcome to the Vittoriano, also known as the Altar of the Fatherland. The Monument to king Victor Emmanuel II was built starting in 1885, designed by Giuseppe Sacconi, and inaugurated in 1911 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Unification of Italy.

The monument was used for presenting animal hunts, gladiatorial fights and death sentences. It was built in the place of the artificial lake of Nero’s Domus Aurea by the three emperors of the Flavian dynasty: Vespasian, Titus and Domitian. Construction began in 71 AD and was financed with the spoils from the Jewish War of 70. The building was solemnly inaugurated in 80 by Titus, completed by Domitian and restored several times until the 5th century. Known originally as Amphitheatrum magnum or Caesareum, in the Early Middle Ages it was given the name of Colysaeum, probably because it was close to the statue of the Colossus erected by Nero.

The main hallway the gladiators used to get from their ‘school’ to underneath the arena floor. We are on the way to see a recreation of one of the elevators that was used to get everything to the arena floor.

Mosaic with hunting scene (venatio) and inscription ex vicen(alibus) f(e) (iciter) vell, refers to the celebration of the 20″ year of reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius (158 AD). The symbol of defeat, the THETA NIGRUM, refers to the death of the animal; the V, read as vicit, to the victorious hunter; VELI, which is difficult to complete, is perhaps an abbreviation of the name of the hunter.

During the long days dedicated to spectacles in the amphitheatres, not only gladiator fights took place: hurting scenes or venationes were also popular.

This is the case of the mosaic on display. It depicts two figures with long hair and short robes facing a wild animal: for a long time it was debated whether they were women or men. The current interpretation prefers to identify them as men.

The presence of women in the arenas, as gladiators or hunters, is however testified by literary sources and archaeological documentation.

Often the emperors themselves organised shows with women: because of their rarity, it made the performances more interesting.

From Rome, Castra Praetoria – 2nd century AD

Seat from the Colosseum bleachers (cavea) bearing graffiti depicting a fight between a Retiarius and a Secutor.

Underneath the arena floor it was dark, cramped, and smelly from all the people and animals.

Another city, another food tour.

This time we are doing a walking tour of the Prati district in Rome, an area known for lots of really good eating places.

This tour not only had more food than the previous one, but also included lots (and lots) of wines.

Our starting point was a small tasting room, Cafe La Nicchia.

We started with lots of Prosecco and a appetizer plate which had on it:

• Bruschetta with extra virgin olive oil D.O.P.
• Bruschetta with Pesto Verde Genovese D.O.P.
• Bruschetta with Pesto Rosso Genovese D.O.P.
• Parmigiano Reggiano D.O.P with Aceto Balsamico tradizionale di Reggio Emilia D.O.P.
• Tartina with Cream of Parmigiano
• Reggiano and Truffle
• Tartina with Butter with Truffle
• Asiago cheese D.O.P. with Cream of Porcini and Truffle
• Provolone cheese D.O.P. with Honey of Truffle

Our charming tour guide was filled with detail and history about everything we tasted.

Next stop: Bonci.

Bonci Pizzarium in Rome, founded in 2003 by Gabriele Bonci (“Michelangelo of Pizza”), is an iconic, award-winning, and renowned, destination for Roman-style pizza al taglio(pizza by the slice). Known for highly hydrated, fermented dough and creative, seasonal, high-quality toppings, it features a unique, crispy-yet-airy texture, with popular items including Carbonara supplì and potato pizza.

Our four picks were Lemon Ricotta Prosciutto, Radicchio Potato Walnut Gorgonzola, Tomato and Mushroom and Parma Ham & Cheese. Paired with a nice red wine, of course.

Salumi is a proud family run business where we are tasting meats and cheese, with a white wine from the region: Terra de Grifi Frescati

Prosciutto Romano Parma VOP

Prosciutto Tuscany Cinta VOP Sienna Free Range Wils Boar

Mortadella with Green Olives

Mozzarella de Campa region

Piedmont Toma with black truffle paste

Lanzia Pecorino Romano DOC, a strong salty sheep’s milk cheese with millefiori honey

Grandpa started the business originally and built it to one of the best stores in the area.

Time for dinner, a two-course pasta meal at Il Segreto.

First course is meat, cheese and pickled onions.

Making the pasta in front of us.

Casio de Pepe, the most ‘robust’ Rome pasta dishes.

It was!

All this was paired with three different wines from the area.

Time for gelato for dessert.

The dome of St. Peter’s Basilica watching us while we stumble back to the hotel.

Today was an early morning private tour of the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica.

We saw only ‘highlights’ on our three hour tour. It is massive and overwhelming and the art inside is rare and beautiful. And there is so much!

They were doing restoration of the Last Judgement wall in the Sistine Chapel but the famous ceiling was there in all its splendor.

St. Peter’s Basilica is by far the largest church we have ever been in. It is so much bigger than anything we have ever seen in a photo. To walk into that space makes you feel small, and exalted at the same time.

The original entrance of the Varican Museums had a statue of Michelangelo and Rafael above the door.

It is the second busiest museum in the world with roughly 20,000 visitors per day. Early morning is the best time to be able to see anything.

This group, found on the Esquiline in Rome in 1506, was immediately identified as the Laocoön described by Pliny and created by the sculptors Agesandros, Athanodoros and Polydoros of Rhodes. The group depicts a famous scene from the mythical Trojan War. Laocoön, a priest of the god Apollo, was opposed to the wooden horse being drawn into Troy, but Athena and Poseidon, who favoured the Greeks, sent two monstrous serpents up from the sea to strangle Laocoön and his two sons to death in their coils. In a Roman interpretation of the story, the death of these innocents was essential since the escape of Aeneas was crucial to the founding of Rome itself. Clearly such an important sculpture did not escape the notice of Julius I (1503-1513), who immediately bought the work and made it the pivotal work in the ideological concept of the Statue Court in Belvedere.

When the sculpture was found, some pieces were missing, including the right arm of the ancient priest. Artists such as Baccio Bandinelli and Giovanni Montorsoli were involved in the restoration work which resulted in Laocoön extending his arm out as though attempting to free himself from the serpent’s coils. The original arm was fortuitously found in an antiques shop in Rome in 1905 by the scholar Ludwig Pollak. This fragment, with the right arm bent as though attempting to ward off the serpent’s fatal bite, was not reattached until 1958. The chronology of this marble masterpiece is still subject to debate, although there is a degree of consensus on a date of around 40-30 BC.

So many of the floors are ancient Roman mosaics that were moved tile by tile.

This is the room that contains the original documents that decreed the virgin birth.

The Sistine Chapel is a chapel in the Apostolic Palace, the pope’s official residence in Vatican City. Originally known as the Cappella Magna (‘Great Chapel’), it takes its name from Pope Sixtus IV, who had it built between 1473 and 1481. Since that time, it has served as a place of both religious and functionary papal activity. Today, it is the site of the papal conclave, the process by which a new pope is selected. The chapel’s fame lies mainly in the frescoes that decorate its interior, most particularly the Sistine Chapel ceiling and The Last Judgment, both by Michelangelo.

Now sing with me:
Reaching out… Touching me, touching you…

_{PS. Photography is strictly forbidden inside the Sistine Chapel.}

Michelangelo’s aesthetic interpretation of the Pietà is unprecedented in Italian sculpture because it balances early forms of naturalism with the Renaissance ideals of classical beauty.

The statue was originally commissioned by a French cardinal, Jean Bilhères de Lagraulas, then French ambassador in Rome. The sculpture was made, probably as an altarpiece, for the cardinal’s funeral chapel in Old St Peter’s. When this was demolished it was preserved, and later took its current location, the first chapel on the north side after the entrance of the new basilica, in the 18th century. It is the only piece Michelangelo ever signed.

This afternoon we did a golf cart tour of the highlights of Rome.

What a blast!

We immediately convinced the tour guide we are going to need wine, and he delivered.

Driving through the most insane traffic in an open golf cart trying not to spill your wine is an exhilarating experience.

Villa Borghese is a landscape garden in Rome, containing a number of buildings, museums and attractions. It is the third-largest public park in Rome (80 hectares or 197.7 acres), after the ones of the Villa Doria Pamphili and Villa Ada. The gardens were developed for the Villa Borghese Pinciana (“Borghese villa on the Pincian Hill”), built by the architect Flaminio Ponzio, developing sketches by Scipione Borghese, who used it as a villa suburbana, or party villa, at the edge of Rome, and to house his art collection. The gardens as they are now were remade in the late 19th century.

The Spanish Steps in Rome are a famous 18th-century Baroque staircase connecting Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità dei Monti church. Built between 1723 and 1725 by Francesco de Sanctis, this 135-step, multi-level masterpiece features dramatic, winding curves, making it a popular, albeit crowded, meeting spot and cultural landmark.

On December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, the Pope visits the Column of the Immaculate Conception in Rome’s Piazza Mignanelli near the Spanish Steps to pray and lay a wreath of flowers at the base of the statue of the Virgin Mary, a tradition in place since 1958.

Stolpersteine (“stumbling stones”) are 10×10 cm concrete cubes topped with brass plates, installed by artist Gunter Demnig since 1995 to commemorate victims of Nazi persecution. Placed in pavements before victims’ last chosen residences across Europe, they bear names, birth dates, and fates (deportation/death). 

Key facts about Stolpersteine:

• Purpose: To restore names and dignity to victims of the Holocaust, including Jewish people, Roma, Sinti, political prisoners, homosexuals, and Jehovah’s Witnesses.
• Concept: The name refers to “stumbling” mentally over the fate of the individuals rather than literally.
• Location: Over 100,000 stones are installed in more than 1,100 cities across 17–22 European countries, making it a widespread, decentralized memorial.
• Details: Each stone is hand-crafted, listing the name, year of birth, and, if known, the date of deportation and death.
• Installation: Initiated by community research or family members, the stones are placed at the last known, voluntarily chosen residence.
• Maintenance: Neighbors and residents often care for the stones, polishing them to maintain their shine as a sign of respect.